ALMISKEENAH

 

Forlorn faces, framed by drab curtains, peer from row upon row of pilgrim buses, painting a surreal image of sadness and despair. Thick diesel fumes spew from the revved engines, puffing dark plumes marring the pristine sunset. Men nimbly secure piles of luggage on roof racks, a coiffure of sorts!

This is the common scene in this Illuminated City, emblazoned by the presence of our beloved Leader of Apostles, Master of Truth and Trustworthiness, SallAllahu alaihi wasallam, during the peak seasons of Ramadhan and Hajj. But what dismays me this time is that it is only minutes to Adhan, minutes to Iftar, minutes for hundreds crammed into buses to leave the tranquility of the Prophet’s company as they are about to break their fast. Tears are visible and sobbing audible. Baffling to think companies could not be more accommodating with their schedules.

 

 

This photo is scanned from one of the local Arabic dailies. The stream of traffic, bumper to bumper is typical of every pre-Iftar evening. Haram is to the right, our home hidden in a maze of alley ways to the left. Negotiating this road is between me and Habibul Allah SallAllahu alaihi wasallam. At least when the traffic is so congested, it is relatively easier to weave in and out, other times it is a race way, with pedestrians having no hope. The alternative way to walk to Haram and avoid this road takes me past the date market and on to the western side of Masjid Nabawi. To reach Haram by car is another adventure in itself!

The road depicted in this photo is one of the main ones off the first ring road, leading to Masjid Quba and the freeway to Makkah. But the main reason for the congestion are the numerous and varied food outlets lining either side of the road, so popular at this time of the day in Ramadhan! Almost as though the last morsel of food on the planet was there and that no body had eaten for a year!

The specialty cuisine of so many nationalities is available; sambosa, samosa, pakora, ful and tamees bread, spiced pulses, roti chanai, as well as the traditional Saudi fare, and of course the array of rich syrupy sweets, baklava, kunafa, basboosa, qadayif. Picture all of this outside on the footpath with the traffic fumes adding that extra flavour!  

Many people prepare various traditional foods and drinks in their homes and then set up a stall by the side of the road. Some advertise their presence by setting up colourful umbrellas, boxes draped with patterned plastic, and some of the village ladies decorating their stalls with their mats woven from the dried date palm leaves. Certain areas are known for their distinct offerings with customers driving considerable distances to add to the spread on their sufra. We recently had visitors from Makkah who brought their "unique" bread with them!

One sought after bread is tanoor, a stone ground variety baked in a stone wood fired oven, looking very much like house bricks! The other popular Saudi treat is Subia. A home made drink, based on barley, sultanas, cardamom, cinnamon and sugar. Huge ice filled plastic barrels are strategically positioned along the streets, with a bright red or a milky white variety available.  This drink is usually purchased in 2 litre plastic bags for SR10. What has traditionally been the domain of the locals making Subia has gradually been taken over by many ex-pats taking advantage of the demand for this drink for Iftar.   

And there are many who do not feel their Iftar is complete unless it is with fresh camel milk.

One Saudi friend and his family have been providing an Iftar sufra at Masjid Quba for several generations, and every Ramadhan inviting all they know to join them seeking the blessings of feeding a fasting person. We broke our fast there the other day, where the locals were distributing Dukka. This is a Madani version of Zarta; a dried thyme and roasted sesame powder eaten with a crusty circular bread and yogurt, followed by the green Saudi coffee.

Driving around Madinah after Asr reveals so much activity outside all mosques, men delivering and arranging food, women in groups patiently waiting for the Adhan to pierce the sky. We happened to be looking at the progress new Masjid of Khandaq when huge platters of foil covered trays were being placed on the sufra on the ground outside Masjid Abu Bakr AsSiddiq, the position of Abu Bakr RadhiAllahu anhu had his tent during the digging of the trench and the pursuing battle. SubhanAllah, sitting and making ones Du’a at such a place and such a time when Du’a is accepted.  

Some families organize "Ramadhan Tents", where not only the small fare prior to Salatul Maghrib is offered, but huge lavish meals as well. In other cities throughout the Kingdom many non-Muslims are invited to share in the breaking of fast. Every year reports appear where several embrace Islam after experiencing and sharing this Mubarak time. May Allah Ta’ala spread His Hidayah throughout the world, Ameen.

 

My curious mind wonders how many thousands of kilometers of plastic must be used every day in Haramain for Iftar, and how many tons of dates are consumed, leaving how many tons of date stones!

 

Qiyamul Layl begins in Masjid Nabawi this evening, as well as it being open all the time, the only ten days in the year that it is, for those blessed with the desire and opportunity to perform I’tikaf.

May Allah keep us all steadfast during these last ten days of this blessed month and shower us all with peace and blessings.

 

All good is from Allah Ta’ala whereas mistakes are from this humble speck. May Allah Ta’ala Bless all readers, bringing you all closer to Him and His Rasul SallAllahu alaihi wasallam. Ameen.