ALMISKEENAH

Dust settles on weary camels and the litters they have transported from far off lands along with merchandise being exchanged and loaded. Dust-covered feet mingle with the dust-covered weird two-toed cushioned feet of the snarling, gurgling, squealing camels. The dusty ground vibrating with muffled padding sounds, stirring a dusty orchestra of hustle and bustle. A dusty mix of aromas, a heady musty combination distilled from dung, spices, foods and bodies alien to the luxuries of modern bathroom facilities.  An imaginary image evoked from a scene of Al-Manakhah, the central market place of this Glowing City, approximately one hundred years ago. A description that could also be from the time of our Noble Rasulullah SallAllahu alaihi wasallam, when this very piece of ground was the main trading hub, Al-Manakhah; “the place where camels knelt down.”

Not much has changed, the Mubarak dust still swirls from the desert wind blasts, showing no discrimination for what it blankets. Merchandise circulates from around the globe. Sounds pierce the air; the natural animate noises now mix with the honking, screeching and revving of the modern “camels”. People’s needs are the same. People’s love for the Prophet SallAllahu alaihi wasallam magnetizes them. Our obligations to Allah Almighty are the same. Masjid Nabawi is a short stroll away, where Adhan seizes the heart, halting our worldly attention.

Haram is to the left, just past the date market where the original Al-Manakhah was. The minaret of Masjid Bilal is in the background.  

Everything, and yet nothing has changed. A contemporary enigma.  Our surroundings might vary. Our vision, or how we view our surroundings makes the difference.  For example, markets can be humble tents on dusty ground. Also they can be a sophisticated mall in a glitzy suburb.  If we deal with them as they truly are, a market, then conceptually we will be able to see the correct way of handling them; the way of Rasulullah SallAllahu alaihi wasallam.

A row of ladies sit day in and day under dusty beach umbrellas selling an array of natural Bedouin-style goods.  A year or so ago there were only three to four ladies vying for the passing custom as motorist drove by this busy location. Now there are more than ten all in a row, surrounded by their makeshift “stores”. Old cardboard boxes, blankets and assorted scraps of fabric are draped over and around the umbrellas and the row of trees they huddle under.

One of the "shops" from the back, a black clad niqabi sister patiently sits, partly visible in the middle. The wooden frame atop the trolley for transporting their wares. Though many items are simply covered over when they are not in attendance.  Note the Madinah mint strung from the tree across the umbrella. What they do not sell as fresh, they dry and crush and sell that by the bag.  

I hesitantly approached the sister, wanting to buy one of the circular sufrahs, but also with the intention and hope of asking her if I could take a photo, knowing from past experiences that these sisters have run after me when they have seen a camera. But that was my mistake too, as I did not approach them first. So I began asking her about how they make these natural products from the dry date palm leaves. The way the colour patterns are dyed, the weaving process and about the sisters who keep these traditions going. She was extremely happy to chat, asking me where I am from…which then made the opening for me to request some photos to show others their beautiful work. I made it clear that I would not include her in the picture, but she stood up anyway, directing me to make sure I included all of her wares!

I thank sister Anisah once again for her explanations describing some of these traditional things. In the right hand corner are small hand-held brooms, or miknissa in Arabic, assembled form the coarser fronds. In previous times they were the main way of sweeping the dirt floors, and small carpets. These days it is the older generation, and the poorer ones still living a simple life in some of the humble dwellings still seen in the older alley ways who buy these.

To the left of these are bags of henna, which is a very popular quality sought after by pilgrims while in Madinah and Makkah. It is an untainted form of this powdered leaf for the dying of hair and the hands, both a Sunnah. The dying of the hair and the beard being a Sunnah for the men.  Thabit RadhiAllahu anhu reported that Anas b. Malik RadhiAllahu anhu was asked about the dyeing of the hair of Allah’s Apostle SallAllahu alaihi wasallam. He explained that there were so few white hairs that if I so liked I could count their number. He further said that he SallAllahu alaihi wasallam did not dye his hair, but that Abu Bakr and ‘Umar RadhiAllahu anhuma used pure henna on their hair. 

While the dying the end of the finger tips was a practice for the women beginning at the time of our dear lady Aishah RadhiAllahu anha.  Once, a woman made a sign from behind a curtain to indicate that she had a letter for the Apostle of Allah SallAllahu alaihi wasallam, he closed his hand, saying that he was unsure  if the hand belonged to  a man or a woman. When our dear lady Aishah RadhiAllahu anha said it was that of a lady he SallAllahu alaihi wasallam said it is better for a woman to colour her nails to distinguish them from that of a man.

According to another narration by Salmah henna can be used as a pain killer as well. A maid-servant of the Apostle of Allah SallAllahu alaihi wasallam said that no one complained to the Apostle of Allah SallAllahu alaihi wasallam of a headache but he told him to be cupped, or of a pain in his legs but he told him to dye them with henna. SubhanAllahu!

Hand held fans are in the foreground, each one a work of art in itself, all designs unique.

The golden-colored liquid in the plastic containers is called "halawa".  It’s a sticky solution made with sugar, and women use it as a natural defoliant, as against all the chemical products commercially available.

Just behind this are bags of dried milk (laban) known as called "madheer". Many eat it as a snack. The sister gave me some to try, it is sour and salty.  They boil the milk, drain any liquid, form patties, then  let it dry.  It can be dissolved and used in cooking. One other older sister some time ago sitting at another place selling her goods told me some add it to their kabsah, the famous Arab meat on rice dish.  I became the audience of a dramatic enactment by this dear sister showing me that it is extremely effective for preventing morning sickness during pregnancy.  Plus due to it being a non perishable foodstuff, able to withstand the heat and not requiring refrigeration, it would be a staple commodity with the Bedouins.

And the eggs! Such a delicious free range variety with deep orange yokes. We buy nothing else. We joke and call then roof range eggs as many keep their chickens on the roof. When we first came here it was common to hear the roosters’ crow at dawn, but unfortunately their presence is getting less as the demolition of the older buildings moves the poorer residents further out.

Where the sister sits for hours and hours! The famous fresh Madinah mint under wet hessian bags, and examples of the two sizes of sufrah, with assorted storage, shopping baskets. Some with lids. And even sun hats! Apart from our regular buying of roof range egss, I buy many of the date-palm items for home use, but also as unique gifts from this Radiant City, supporting this traditional industry, but also spreading the Mubarak blessings of all things from here.

Everything, yet nothing, changes. Dust settles.

Nothing, but everything, changes. Dust settles.

All good is from Allah Ta’ala whereas mistakes are from this humble speck. May Allah Ta’ala Bless all readers, bringing you all closer to Him and His Rasul SallAllahu alaihi wasallam.  May He accept our humble efforts and grant us the capacity to be good and do good. Ameen.