ALMISKEENAH

 

Walls, Towers, Forts and Gates.

Continued from the last post.

The first contact between the Ottoman rulers and Madinah took place after the conquest of Egypt in 922A.H. (1519 A.D.) by the Ottoman Sultan Saleem.

The Shereef, or ruler of Madinah at the time Al-Shareef Barakat, sent his son to Egypt carrying the keys of the Haramain and handed them over to the Sultan. In return for this gesture, the Sultan instated Al-Shareef Barakat as ruler of Makkah and Madinah assisted by his son.

Over the centuries, the Ottoman Turks established four administrative and religious bodies in Madinah; the authority of Shariah law, the authority of police for internal security, the authority of the military governor responsible for external security, the head of which was called the city mayor, and the authority of the Sheikh of Masjid Nabawi, which was the supreme authority overseeing the former bodies, and had direct access to the Sultan. This position was held by a Turk who would meet weekly with a council comprising the city mayor, muftis of the four Islamic Madhhabs and other prominent figures.

Work on the first Ottoman wall began in 1533 A.D., taking ten years to complete, which included a huge castle attached to the wall. Historians say the wall looked like a lofty mountain looking down on the city

The pinnacle of the Ottoman era in Madinah was the Hijaz railway, beginning in Damascus and terminating in Madinah in 1908 A.D. Originally the plan was for it to extend to Makkah and then onto Yemen. However the start of the Arabian Revolution in 1917 A.D. led to the destruction of the railway when the Arabs blew up large parts of it. (A fascinating contemporary account deals with this turmoil in Setting the Desert on Fire)

Another significant event in the history of Madinah during these latter years of the Ottomans was the two year siege during the Arabian Revolution. The Turks had turned this Radiant City of Light into a military base to protect their interests. They nominated Omar Fakhri Pasha military governor of the city and reinforced their military presence with additional troops and equipment and many forts strategically placed on nearby high points. 

Masaajids, including Masjid Nabawi were used as depots to store weapons. Omar Fakhri Pasha confiscated and took possession of all food supplies, cereals, dates, rice, wheat and corn and stored it in the various barracks and forts, denying the people of Madinah access to their produce. Food could only be obtained through smuggling and anyone caught was severely punished. This siege reached a climax in 1919 A.D.

To ensure stability and order in the city and to avoid unrest caused by starvation and famine, Fakhri Pasha began deporting the population of Madinah to Syria, Lebanon and Turkey. A well orchestrated and systematic campaign began to evacuate the city of its inhabitants, some selling their homes for a sack of grain. The author Ali Hafiz, who only recently passed away, recalled how his father would buy grain at an exorbitant price, grind it to flour in the home and then conceal it within the house where it could not be detected when searched.

The Turkish government ordered Fakhri to withdraw to Syria when the situation worsened, but he refused and took refuge in Masjid Nabawi. Eventually his senior offices ambushed him while he was sleeping and arrested him to be handed over to the Emir Ali ibn Al-Hussein.

The Arab Revolution continued to harass the Turks in Arab lands and during World War 1 the Revolution allied with the British to secure victory. The Arabs at the time lacked the strength and experience to force the Turks out of their lands, while the British pledged to secure the independence of the Arab lands…but the allies later recanted their promise….and instead began colonizing the Arab lands…..

Emir Ali ibn Al-Hussein ruled Madinah until he was proclaimed King, and the refugees began returning to Madinah.

But it was not long before disputes between this Ashraf ruler and King Abdul Aziz Al-Saud flared with the result that Makkah, followed by Jeddah, and then Madinah in 1925 A.D. surrendered to the Sauds…and the rest is history….along with the crumbling remains of various forts and walls.

 

This is Khashm Aldheeb fort built during the time of the military governorship Omar Fakhri Pasha. It is on the western end of our Beloved Jabal Uhud. Being constructed with the stones of the mountain, it sits almost camoflaged.

 

Khashm Aldheeb. The local council has attempted to make this a tourist park, but like so many projects it has been frought with problems due to lack of planning and consulting with the appropriate experts. The area has now been shut until it is made safe for the public. 

 

The stone work is quite differnt from some of the city walls. Here stones of all shapes and sizes have been layered with such skill that the wall surfaces are relatively flat without necessitating the cutting of the stones to fit. 

 

Inside view, the steps being of much larger stones. 

 

Looking down to the south. Jabal Uhud is predominantly metamorphic rock, with a little granite, as seen here. 

 

Looking across to Jabal Eyr, the Bab of Jahannam, marking the southern boundary of the sacred area of Haram. The planted trees in the left hand corner are part of this park project.  

 

Looking across to Jabal Habshi with the Royal Palace on top. This is the mountain Dajjal ascends and looks down upon the Palace of Ahmad. 

The remains of the fort on top of Jabal Sal’a, which in contrast to Jabal Uhud, is predominantly of volcanic rocks, hence the dark grey stone work. This view is from Masaajid Sab’e, the Seven Mosques, where the Prophet SallAllahu alaihi wasallam and the Sahabah RadhiAllahu anhum strood guard during the Battle of the Trench. The new Masjid is another mystery…it has been completed for more than a year, but still remains fenced off and not in use.   

 

This is Quba Fort, one of the biggest, being three storeys high. Also built during the time of Omar Fakhri Pasha when the confrontation was with his soldiers and Al-Ashraf and their allies. It sits upon a volcanic crop of rugged rocks, originally part of the Al-Wabara Harrah…or lava track, close to Masjid Juma’ah and Masjid Quba. There is only this one arched doorway with a wooden door to the fort.  

Many of the forts built from granite were rendered in gypsum and or mud, which is still evident here.  

 

A detail showing the use of wood as part of the structure. Modern appartment blocks have been and continue to be build within meters of this fort!

There are others, but I will leave them for another post, Insha’Allah. 

All good is from Allah Ta’ala whereas mistakes are from this humble speck. May Allah Ta’ala Bless all readers, bringing you all closer to Him and His Rasul SallAllahu alaihi wasallam. May He accept our humble efforts and grant us the capacity to be good and do good. Ameen.